In Catalonia there are a few holidays ( holidays), but almost none in winter. After Reyes, wait until Easter for a long weekend. Three months are very heavy, so this opportunity comes as almost everyone goes to Barcelona in a mini-vacation of four days. As in 2008 had been very lucky with the weather in the south of France , last year we decided to cross the Pyrenees to visit one of the most popular areas of France: Carcassonne.
After about three hours, we arrived at the Bed & Breakfast, a huge mansion with swimming pool, probably medieval origin, and leave things in our house with two floors. But unlike last year, it was very cold and raining, and the house was too spacious for the small stove that gave us (they did not want to turn the central heating to save). EstrenĂ¡bamos
GPS, which proved to be a big help because otherwise it would have been impossible to find the house. The town was so small that not even appear on posters, it came to him through a "road" from 3 meters wide, equal to all others, and all people share the surname near Minervois (for example, we slept in Laure Minervois). In fact it was so difficult to get that one night we got lost for half an hour, with GPS and all.
was noon on April 10. First we went to the Abbey Fontfroide , founded in the eleventh century, Cistercian Order (coming to Catalonia), a very successful order that valued asceticism and work.
According to Wikipedia, the abbey has a collection of 2500 roses. It seems that it was time.
far we could go. Had a guided tour, but did not want to pay.
began to rain in earnest. We ate some in the car and went to visit the abbey Caunes Minervois (located in the village of the same name, a cousin of ours). As our Laure Minervois, is also surrounded by vineyards. It seems that is famous for its marble, used in the Paris Opera. In any case, after have a coffee bar in a semi-derelict, we entered the Benedictine abbey, which was owned for a time of the Counts of Barcelona.
Before going I have to talk a little about the Cathars , the ancient inhabitants of the area, which was a bit special. A Cathar bishop, for example, so irritated the Roman Church that the Pope's representatives decided to burn it in this same abbey, back in 1227. It is unclear what was bothered more. Maybe it was the belief Cathar that the world was created by a being who was half God and half Satan. Or try to make the ascetic society. Or do not obey the Church of Rome, but were governed by San Juan and Mary Magdalene. It was also rare for the dying had to undergo a strict fast to purify (and dying). Or to believe in reincarnation (though as a punishment). I guess that Benedict would not like either the idea that marriage did not support and accept homosexuality.
Anyway, the idea that I like is the duality of God / Satan. They believed that God created the immaterial and material Satan. Or is that all earthly things, including the Catholic Church, were instruments of corruption. For the Cathars also liked the idea that Christ had flesh, rotting in the act (surely, that very night that the bird sacred to Mary viola). Nor is believed the original sin, it is impossible that he had made in heaven, God-ruled territory. And do not swear, because it was tied to the material world.
Anyway, were at least entertaining. Some say they were more connected with the Templars. Anyway, the boring of Rome decided to exterminate them, with the collaboration of the French back in the thirteenth century. And more than one die in this beautiful inner square.
had organized a museum in the rooms of the church, very sad indeed, but fortunately the backyard of the abbey was worth it.
boards had decorated the stones with red paint. It was original and there was nothing wrong.
I think the next village we visited is called Cucugnan , which has a castle on top. But what first caught my attention was a very long staircase, the only form of access a house under construction.
should be quite an experience climbing the ladder in the rain and wind.
The main street is the road. Cucugnan is actually squeezed between the mountains and river, and never get to have even 100 meters wide.
Overhead, Peyrepertuse Castle , which according to aerial photos are spectacular, but is down slightly and the day was not adequate to climb through the woods for an hour. Yes, one day I would take the win with another castle.
His first mention is the eleventh century. Of these things without knowing the exact date of construction, we only know when was the first time he appeared on a list. At that time belonged to the Catalan counts of BesalĂº . Later he became the Counts of Barcelona, \u200b\u200band then the kings of Aragon. Finally, not to join the crusade against the Cathars, it loses its autonomy and becomes the southern border of France, until in 1659 Spain decided to give him the Catalan Roussillon to the French. Then, sitting further away from the border lost strategic importance, and begins its decline, until it was restored in 1950.
To finish seize the day, we went to the fortified city of Carcassonne . First we took a walk around its periphery, the new town so to speak, where stood the strange building, abandoned in the middle of a parking called domus :
roof photo:
following would be the Cathedral (located outside the old town, in the "new" Carcassonne):
Finally, we arrived at the fortified city, the biggest castle I saw so far. Here is the separation between two walls of the outer defense.
And here is a good front. The scale is lost in the photo, but the set is really huge.
We took a walk outside walls. There are at least two outer rings, which are moved by the soldiers defending the fort.
The steps between the different rings are narrow. If the enemy siege defenses managed to spend the summer, was still ahead more defensive walls.
There are a lot of towers.
guess this area was once covered by water:
Finally we were inside the castle. And night fell, so the museum closed and opened bars and restaurants. Here, a church still open:
walked to another church. The pictures are not good, but I want to compensate for the lack of gargoyles in my notes, those figures phallic intended to frighten the believers.
The castle is so large that it contains several streets.
As we were hungry, and French restaurants are expensive (and even more within a castle), we begin our withdrawal. These are the outer walls, now enlightened:
The truth is that it is one of the most spectacular buildings ever seen.
With the help of GPS, we found an excellent Italian trattoria in a nearby town, and go into the dark looking for the secret path that will take us back to the accommodation. The next day we would visit Montpellier, but that is for another post.
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